What Makes a Good Laksa? A Singaporean Chef Weighs In

Our signature seafood laksa

Ask five Singaporeans what makes a great laksa, and you’ll get five different answers. Some swear by the broth, it’s rich, creamy, and just the right amount of spicy. Others will tell you it’s the sambal that seals the deal.

For me? It’s the harmony. A bowl of laksa should feel like a hug: complex, comforting, and deeply satisfying.

When I opened Dabao Singapore, I didn’t set out to recreate laksa exactly the way I grew up eating it. I wanted to make a version that honored tradition while fitting the rhythms of San Francisco life. Our vegan laksa has no shrimp, no fishcake, no blood cockles and yet, it’s become one of our most-loved dishes. Even die-hard seafood fans tell us they can’t believe how satisfying it is. And our seafood version? Let’s just say it never lasts long.

A good laksa starts with the broth. Ours is a coconut-based stock infused with lemongrass, dried chilies, galangal, and a homemade spice paste we cook down for hours. There’s a reason the broth tastes deep. It is deep. We layer flavors slowly, building richness without shortcuts. The sambal we serve on the side isn’t just for heat, it’s meant to help you steer your bowl where you want it to go. Some days you need fire. Some days you need comfort. We get it.

I love watching people taste laksa for the first time. There’s usually a pause. Then a "whoa." And then the sound I live for: the slurping.

What makes a good laksa? For me, it’s care. Time. Respect for the dish’s roots, and trust in the eater to make it their own. If you’ve had a good laksa recently, you know exactly what I mean.