What Makes a Good Laksa? A Singaporean Chef Weighs In

Our signature seafood laksa

Ask five Singaporeans what makes a great laksa, and you’ll get five different answers. Some swear by the broth – rich, creamy, and just the right amount of spicy. Others will tell you it’s the sambal that seals the deal. For me? It’s the harmony. A bowl of laksa should feel like a hug: complex, comforting, and deeply satisfying.

When I opened Dabao Singapore, I didn’t set out to recreate laksa exactly the way I grew up eating it. I wanted to make a version that honored tradition while fitting the rhythms of San Francisco life. Our vegan laksa has no shrimp, no fishcake, no blood cockles – and yet, it’s become one of our most-loved dishes. Even die-hard seafood fans tell us they can’t believe how satisfying it is. And our seafood version? Let’s just say it never lasts long.

A good laksa starts with the broth. Ours is a coconut-based stock infused with lemongrass, dried chilies, galangal, and a homemade spice paste we cook down for hours. There’s a reason the broth tastes deep. It is deep. We layer flavors slowly, building richness without shortcuts. The sambal we serve on the side isn’t just for heat – it’s meant to help you steer your bowl where you want it to go. Some days you need fire. Some days you need comfort. We get it.

I love watching people taste laksa for the first time. There’s usually a pause. Then a "whoa." And then the sound I live for: slurping.

What makes a good laksa? For me, it’s care. Time. Respect for the dish’s roots, and trust in the eater to make it their own. If you’ve had a good laksa recently, you know exactly what I mean.